The Croke Park Experience
The Croke Park Experience
The Croke Park experience comes in many forms; it could be the absolute thrill of seeing your county play in an All-Ireland final(been there, done that), or the pleasures of watching your favourite singer perform, or it could be something entirely different. For example, according to 360dublincity.com, “The guided Croke Park Stadium Tour offers an access-all-areas trip through this 82,300 capacity stadium, the home of Ireland’s national games”, plus the GAA Museum tour which “offers exhibition galleries that vividly illustrate the story of Gaelic games from ancient times to present day.” Or for the more adventurous, how about experiencing “unmatched panoramic city views and insights into Dublin’s celebrated landmarks combined with the thrill of walking on top of Europe’s third largest stadium” with Croke Park’s, Etihad Skyline Rooftop Tour. Fascinating.
From my perspective, what sticks in my memory, regarding a Croke Park (or ‘Croker’, as yours truly and thousands of Dubliners call it) experience, has nothing to do with GAA games or tours. My stand out, unforgettable memories involve other sports played in the iconic stadium—and I was only physically present, in Croker, on one of the memorable occasions. My ‘Croker’ absence from the other two did not diminish the captivating experience, as television came to the rescue. Of the three experiences, one included two big men trying to knock each other out, the next comprised very special athletes, and the other consisted of a funny shaped ball and an emotionally charged atmosphere.
MUHAMMAD ALI VERSUS AL ‘BLUE’ LEWIS, CROKE PARK, DUBLIN, 19-7-72.
My boyhood hero, Muhammad Ali, crowned by Sports Illustrated as ‘Sportsman of the Century,’ and honoured by the BBC as ‘Sport Personality of the Century’ in 1999, boxed in the illustrious ‘Croker’ --and I missed the exceptional occasion. The renowned fighter later, in the late nineties development phase of Croke Park, had a tunnel named after him, in tribute to his fight with Lewis and his other extraordinary achievements. Well earned.
As a boxing and Ali fan, I had looked forward to seeing ‘The Greatest’ fight on the hallowed ‘Croker’ turf in that summer of ’72. Alas, despite being only a teenager at the time, my unavoidable work commitments took priority. To further rub salt into my wound, so-called friends bragged how they gained entrance for free. Young brats, but I was so jealous. However, I did manage to view a televised, monochrome edition of the battle.
Billed as The Greatest versus the Detroit Contender For The Heavyweight Title, Ali won with an 11th round knockout in the scheduled twelve rounder. Alvin ‘Blue’ Lewis, a released manslaughter convict and heavyweight contender, proved no match for the ‘Louisville Lip’ in that 1972 non-title fight. Although good behaviour and hard work had earned Al Blue an early release from prison and subsequent crack at the big time with Muhamad Ali, his commitment and bravery fell short. Croke Park’s less spacious, amateur-sized boxing ring ensured no escape or respite from Ali’s quicksilver jabs and superior, fighting style.
The late, great Micheal O’Hehir compered the fight. No strangers to ‘Croker’, the Artane Boys Band combined with world famous folk band, The Dubliners, to play Amhrán Na bhFiann. This memorable occasion was witnessed by 25,000 supporters (including some 5000 non-paying ones, the jammy so and so’s). Yes, those were the days.
Croker rocked to the sound of Dublin accents shouting,”C’MON ALI”. The atmosphere was electric, good natured (although maybe a tad biased) and pulsating with excitement and anticipation. The stylish, shuffling, dancing Ali put his brave bruiser of an opponent on his back in the fifth round. A rapid combination of lefts and rights did the damage to the plucky warrior from Detroit. There was some confusion as Lewis got up on the ninth count, however, because it also seemed like he may have been saved by the bell. Anyway, the referee stopped the fight in the eleventh round, to protect Blue from any more stinging punishment. A technical knockout was recorded, much to the frenzied delight of Irish Ali fans, having witnessed the awesome splendour of their hero ‘floating like a butterfly and stinging like a bee’.
Despite missing the live fight, I do remember watching Ali’s interview with the late Cathal Shannon of RTE. Ali’s funny, charismatic, political and somewhat complex personality shines throughout the entertaining chat with his genial host. The fifty minute, black and white (yes, black and white, welcome to my youth) RTE interview can be viewed on YouTube by following this link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QWvBBMtRak. Watch out for a neat trick Ali performs with a piece of silver paper, late into the interview. Well worth a peep.
Muhammad Ali is noted for his funny quotes. My favourite is: “I should be a postage stamp, because that's the only way I'll ever get licked. I'm beautiful. I'm fast. I'm so mean I make medicine sick. I can't possibly be beat.” Yes, great stuff from the shy, retiring three times world heavyweight champion.
2003 SPECIAL OLYMPICS OPENING CEREMONY, CROKE PARK, DUBLIN, 21-6-2003
The third largest stadium in Europe staged the fantastically spectacular 2003 Special Olympics opening ceremony—and I was present for the remarkable experience this time around. The brilliantly staged event has stuck in my memory. Compered by funnyman, Patrick Kiely, Croke Park boasted an incredible galaxy of stars and famous people. Those included, Nelson Mandela( God bless him); Muhammad Ali( can’t keep away, obviously); U2; Riverdance; Arnold Schwarzenegger( a big name star); Pierce Brosnan(I loved when ‘James Bond’ declared he was proud to be Irish, whilst referring to Riverdance); Jon Bon Jovi; The Corrs; Irish soccer heroes, Roy Keane and Damien Duff, plus a few other big-time celebrities. Even our president, Mary McAleese, had a few words to say. Of course, one can’t forget the real stars of the marvelous spectacle: the special athletes. Seven thousand participants from 168 countries competed, and their eagerness, stamina and unbridled joy were truly inspirational. Bravo!
We arrived late andCroker seemed nearly full to its capacity of 80,000 plus supporters. Accompanied by the missus and number two son (a sports nut like me, who had his special athlete friend competing), we were greeted by a stadium awash with colour and noise. “Great buzz, deadly crowd”, said overawed number two son. He was right; the atmosphere in the magnificently prepared stadium was joyous and exhilarating. The explosion of colour emanated from the colourfully attired, marching competitors and volunteers on the white floor-covered pitch, and the waving of different coloured flags by supporters in every stand. The enthusiasm and merriment of the special athletes was infectious and sent a feel-good ripple around the massive arena, like contagious, cheerful Mexican Wave. Stunning.
We were seated in the Davin Stand. The huge stage was constructed at the far end of the pitch (Hill 16) facing us. The organizers had erected two giant TV screens, each side of the stage. The mustachioed Muhammad Ali, suffering from Parkinson disease, was driven around the pitch in a golf cart. I managed to get as close as I possibly could to the great man (he was well chaperoned) and I think I received a half smile for my reward. God between him and all harm.
I’ll never forget the entertainment; it was outstanding, and it seemed to get progressively better as the evening wore on. The highlight, for me, (besides getting a glimpse of ‘The Greatest’) was the stupendous presentation of Riverdance. Lynn Hillary kicked it off with the superb, stirring Cloudsong. Soon we had the pounding drums and the mesmeric, clickety-clack of dancing feet. The haunting noise surrounded the stadium, as 100 dancers filled the huge stage and created a breathtaking, magical performance. It was a hard act to follow, but U2 rose to the challenge. Afterwards, the night was illuminated with a spectacular fireworks display. Awesome experience. Well done, Croke Park. Unforgettable.
IRELAND VERSUS ENGLAND, CROKE PARK, DUBLIN, 24-2-2007
I did not attend this historic rugby match(I prefer games with round shaped balls), but I wish I had attended. Nonetheless, the raw emotions of the momentous occasion could be felt by me and my fellow television viewers.
The historical background is worth reiterating. On’ Bloody Sunday’, 19-11-1920, during a Croke Park football match between Dublin and Tipperary, British military forces massacred fourteen unarmed, innocent people including Tipperary captain, Michael Hogan. Fast forward eighty seven years to 24-2-2007, and the first ever English sports team, on Croke Park soil, were about to face Ireland in a game of rugby.
The fear was that the British, national anthem would be heckled by some of the 70,000 plus Irish supporters—or worse, violence would break out. ‘God Save The Queen’, sung with pride and enthusiasm by the English team and many fans rang out around the stadium. The Irish players and fans greeted this display of passion with due respect and silence. What happened next gave me goosebumps and the hair stood up at the back of my neck. A rousing rendition of Amhrán Na bhFiann was sung with great gusto by Irish players and fans, as if trying to outdo the English, patriotic fervour. They succeeded. Mightily. The television cameras panned the players and the Irish supporters. Sentiment spilled over. History remembered. Grown men allowed tears to flow freely. I don’t remember much detail about the actual match, but those moments were a Croke Park experience that stuck in my memory. Emotional, dignifying and inspirational.
Overall, a Croke Park experience, for me, does not have to ONLY entail watching or participating in Gaelic games. Perceptions vary; therefore, abiding memories of’ Croker’ differ for people. The stadium, steeped in Irish history and culture, has many attractions. The Croke Park Stadium Tour sounds interesting and intriguing--and I’ve never had the pleasure. I will, some day. To quote Arnold Schwarzenegger in Croker, during the Special Olympics, “I’LL BE BACK.”
Have a nice day.
Tomas O’hArgadain