THE GREEN
It was once a common ground where Dubliners could graze their sheep and other livestock. To pasture your sheep now in St. Stephen’s Green, however, you first need to be made a Freeman/Freewoman of Dublin City. According to Dublin City Council, “To date only 76 people have been given the Freedom of the City of Dublin.” The list of those honoured is varied and illustrious, and includes, Nelson Mandela, Bill Clinton, Mikhail Gorbachev, John F. Kennedy, Eamon de Valera, John [Big Jack] Charlton, all U2 members and Bob Geldof. But only two recipients, U2’s Bono and The Edge, have ever exercised their Freeman privilege to pasture sheep in St. Stephen’s Green. This well published event occurred in March 2000. A publicity stunt (or EWE 2 stunt, as some commentators referred to it) developed into a bit of craic, as I remember.
Despite the odds of maybe tripping over a U2 lamb, let’s go for another ramble around ‘The Green’ this lunch-hour. The Georgian square(with rectangular park) is comprised of streets named(surprise, surprise) St. Stephen’s Green North, St. Stephen’s Green South, St. Stephen’s Green East and St. Stephen’s Green West. We approach the St. Stephen’s Green West, Luas Green Line terminus. Listen to the metallic, rolling, rumbling sound of metal wheels and the dinging bell as a tram pulls in. The whooshing of tram doors and chattering people disembarking soon follows.
The Luas service, since its inception in 2004, has been a categorical success story. It has two lines: the Red line, named after the Red Cow terminus, and the Green line, named after St. Stephen’s Green terminus. Simple. It’s almost like the Luas has always been here. Once something acquires an affectionate nickname from Dubliners, its popularity is guaranteed. The most popular nickname I’ve heard for the Luas tram is ‘The Gerry Lee’, as in “I got the’ Gerry Lee’ into work this morning.” ‘Gerry Lee’ is a derivative of another used nickname,’The Gerry Lee Lewis.’
Anyway, let’s continue our ramble. We turn left at the corner of Harcourt Street and St. Stephen’s Green South. Deciding to stroll up to the park entrance at the corner of Earlsfort Terrace/ Leeson Street Lower and Stephen’s Green East, I look up at the sky. There’s an ominous feel about today’s weather (well, if our weather wasn’t so changeable, most of us couldn’t start a conversation). The clouds are a swirling, greyish-brown colour and getting darker, gathering and nudging each other. They remind me of my pint of Guinness as it settles. Lovely. Sorry, I’m starting to digress here. We quicken our pace … and discuss the weather.
We arrive at the south-east gate. The entrance is perhaps not as notable or grandiose as the Fusiliers Arch entrance, but is pretty impressive nonetheless. A wide entrance, it encompasses four tall pillars of channelled, ashlar granite; incorporating decorated, cast iron gates which facilitate two pedestrian entrances and one vehicular entrance in the centre, and a broad, tree-lined pathway into park. There are a few empty benches on our left and right, where the pathway meets the grass verges. The vacant bench seats are probably an indicator of the impending, inclement weather. This is no problem. There are more than 700 trees in the park; other shelters, including a large kiosk and bandstand, are available should we require a dry refuge.
Just behind a bench on our right-hand side, there’s a wide, informative signboard with details of the park; it protrudes in the foliage and tree area, and stands tall on the grass. The colourful map illustrates the general layout of the park, with detailed directional information regarding attractions and landmarks. After a quick scan (well it is my lunch-hour) we discover our first memorial is only a couple of yards ahead. A short stroll reveals the Three Fates Fountain.
The 1956 monument is a tidy, circular fountain with three, bronze female figures known as The Three Fates, with two standing and one sitting on a stonework slab in the centre of the circle. In Greek mythology, the Three Fates weave and measure the thread of man’s destiny. The Goddesses, named Clotho, Lachesis and Atropos influence our life on earth. Clotho spins the thread of life, Lachesis decides the thread’s length and the powerful Atropos (bitch!) cuts the tread, when death is decided.
Wow! Three women deciding our destinies … and I always thought that was my missus’s job. Only joking, Atropos (I don’t want to tempt Fate … or Fates). Equally and in relation to other traditions, Norse mythology also has three similar female divinities with the same awesome powers, but different names.
I notice some engravings on the rectangular slabs of the circular masonry. The first inscription is in three languages: German, English and Irish. In English it reads:
With gratitude for the help given to German children by the Irish people after World War II.
Roman Herzog
President of the Federal Republic of Germany
23.03.1997
The second inscription reads:
This fountain designed by the sculptor Josef Wackerle is the gift of the people of the German Federal Republic for Ireland’s help after the war of 1939-45. The bronze group portrays the three legendary fates spinning and measuring the thread of man's destiny
The Irish are renowned worldwide for contributing to humanitarian projects on a volunteer basis, and especially noted for their financial generosity. In July 1946, the Control Council of the British zone of divided Germany sent German children, many of them orphans from the war-torn zone, into the care of the Irish Red Cross. There was no shortage of alacritous, caring, Irish foster parents ready and willing to accommodate the Red Cross children. Admirable.
At the Three Fates Fountain, the road branches off into different trails. St. Stephen’s Green has many pathways. We decide to stay left. There are still a number of people wandering around in all directions, enjoying this popular park. The huge, London Plane and Sycamore trees seem to absorb and contain all the hustle and bustle of the city, like great big sponges soaking up the petrol fumes and traffic noise. It’s like walking down a country lane, and basking in the quietness.
Soon, a whistling wind gathering pace and rustling tree leaves threatens the pleasant, peaceful atmosphere. No matter, another attraction, the James Joyce’s bust, comes into view. The bust faces Newman House, where the world famous writer was educated. Born in Dublin in 1882, James Joyce became a literary genius, and he’s much celebrated for masterpieces like Ulysses, Dubliners and Finnegan’s Wake. Regarding St. Stephen’s Green, the Stream of Consciousness novelist wrote in Ulysses, “the trees in Stephen’s Green were fragrant of rain and the rain sodden earth gave forth its mortal odour.” Also from his writings, his bust’s inscription reads:” Crossing Stephen’s, that is, my green …”
Torrential rain interrupts our recollections of Joyce. I feel the driving wind and rain lashing my face. Shelter, in the guise of the park bandstand, is close at hand. We make it over albeit dripping from rain that pounds down like stair-rods. The rain soon stops and I head over to the Insomnia cafe for a coffee, whilst I’ve still fifteen minutes left of my lunch-hour.
Hope you enjoyed our walk. I’ll make sure I pick a dry day for the next one. There’s plenty more memorials worth viewing and discussing in St. Stephen’s Green. Have a nice day.
Tomas O’hArgadain.